Scarifying is an essential bit of lawn maintenance. Done properly, it will give you lush green grass that’s the envy of your neighbours!
But if you’ve never done it before, it can sound pretty – well – scary! So how do you go about doing it? What equipment do you need? And how do you avoid damaging your lawn?
We’re here to answer those questions! Read on for our step by step guide to how to scarify a lawn. And take a look at our extra tips to get even better results.
Tools Needed to Scarify a Lawn
- Wire toothed rake or mechanical lawn scarifier
- Large bag or bucket – only needed if you’re scarifying with a rake
- Moss killer – if needed
- Weed removing tool
- Lawn seed
- Bucket or seed spreader
- Watering can or hosepipe
Step by Step Guide on How to Scarify a Lawn
Step 1: Prepare your lawn for scarifying
A good first step is to give your grass a mow. There’s no need to take it down too low, but cutting it to a manageable length will make your life much easier. Whether you’re using a rake or a mechanical scarifier, shorter grass will mean there’s less to wrestle with.
if you’ve got a scarifier or can borrow one, it will make the whole process simpler. And you won’t have to work quite so hard! It’s a particular boon if you’ve got a large lawn, where scarifying can give your muscles a real workout.
But don’t worry if you don’t have access to a mechanical version. A wire toothed rake will work just as well. And it will give you complete control over the scarifying process.
Step 2: Check the condition of your lawn
Now that you’ve mowed it, take a good look at your lawn to see what you’re dealing with. If you’ve got patches of moss – particularly common in lawns that get a lot of shade – now’s the time to get rid of it.
Kill it with a specially formulated moss killer before you start scarifying. If you don’t, scarifying could actually make your moss problem worse. Once you start uprooting it, the spores can quickly spread. That means all the moss you remove will quickly be replaced by the next generation!
After you’ve treated any moss, check your lawn for perennial weeds and take them out. You want to make sure you remove everything, right down to the root. If you don’t, the scarifying process will break up the remaining roots and spread them across your lawn. That means more weeds next season!
Step 3: Scarify
Now that you’ve removed the weeds and killed any moss, you’re ready to scarify.
Whether you’re using a mechanical scarifier or a rake, the key is to be methodical. Start at one end of your lawn and work on each patch in turn.
If you’re using a mechanical scarifier, you’ll need to make two passes. For the first, move up and down your lawn in straight lines, starting each row immediately next to the last. Then repeat the process, this time at ninety degrees to your first pass.
A mechanical scarifier will collect the dead grass and thatch as you work. Don’t be surprised if you have to stop several times to empty the container. You’ll be surprised at how much of this stuff is buried at the base of your lawn.
If you’re using a rake, you’ll need to collect up the dead thatch by hand. Pop it into a bucket or large bag, and take it to the composter when it’s full. Just make sure you remove any flowering weeds first, or they’ll reappear when you use your compost!
Pro Tip: If you’re using a rake, your best bet is to collect up the thatch after completing each patch. That will prevent it getting in your way as you work, or blowing about the garden if it’s windy. It will also give you a short break from all that raking!
Step 3 (Optional): Mow the lawn again
After you’ve finished scarifying your lawn, don’t be unnerved if it looks a bit of a mess!
Scarifying is quite a brutal process, but your lawn will thank you for it. Removing all that dead grass and thatch will allow the light and nutrients to reach the base of your grass. And that will mean you’ll have a lush, green lawn when it recovers.
After you’ve scarified, the next step is to give the grass another light trim. If your aching back can’t face this, don’t worry – it’s not compulsory. But it will help stimulate the grass to start growing again, helping it to recover more quickly.
Step 4: Overseed the lawn
Now that you’ve got rid of all that dead grass, there’ll be room for fresh new shoots. The next stage, then, is to overseed your lawn.
Check the packaging of your lawn seed for the recommended quantities for overseeding. Then measure out half the correct amount for the area you need to cover.
Empty the seed into a bucket, or whatever container is handy. Then walk up and down the lawn, spreading the seed as evenly as possible.
Measure out the second half of grass seed and repeat the process, walking at right angles to the first pass. This will help you get even coverage and avoid missing any spots. You can find more tips on overseeding on the Lawn UK website.
Step 5: Give your lawn a good watering
You can use a watering can for this, but a hose pipe will make your life easier. Set the nozzle to a light shower to avoid disturbing the grass seeds.
That’s it – you’re done! Give yourself a big pat on the back for all your hard work. Your existing grass will now grow stronger and healthier, and you’ll get fresh new shoots too!
When to scarify your Lawn
- The best times to scarify your lawn are spring and autumn. The grass won’t be parched in the summer heat, or unable to grow and recover in winter.
- If you can only face doing it once a year, that’s fine. There are different views on whether a spring or autumn scarifying is best. Just go for whatever is most convenient for you.
- Make sure, though, that you scarify at least once a year. That will keep your grass in tip top condition. And you’ll avoid the risk of pulling out so much thatch that you end up needing to reseed your whole lawn!
Take the opportunity to improve aeration
- If you can face it, after scarifying is a golden opportunity to improve the aeration of your lawn. That simply involves poking lots of holes into the surface of the soil. There are lots of ways to do it, from buying a mechanical aerator to just using a garden fork.
- The result will be that more rainwater and nutrients are able to penetrate the soil. And that’s good news for the health of your lawn.
Check your lawn seed is suitable for overseeding
- Before you overseed your lawn, check that the grass seed is suitable for the conditions in your garden. If your lawn doesn’t get much sunshine, look for mixtures that are specially formulated to grow well in the shade. And if your lawn is used for play, look for harder wearing formulations that include ryegrass.
- Make sure you check the quantities recommended for overseeding carefully before you get started. And don’t be tempted to use too much. If there’s not enough room for the seeds, they won’t germinate successfully. And too many seedlings in a small space can lead to the roots rotting, especially in damp conditions.
Keep your lawn in good condition with regular mowing
- It will take between four and six weeks for your lawn to recover from scarifying. It will be ready for a cut on a high setting after about ten days. You can gradually reduce the height with each subsequent cut.
- Aim to cut your lawn once every week to two weeks in the growing season. That will keep rejuvenating your grass. And use a roller if you want to create those beautiful green stripes.
You’re all set to give your lawn a new lease of life!
Scarifying is hard work, but it’s well worth it to keep your lawn looking wonderful. Prepare for the process by mowing the grass, make sure you scarify the whole surface, then overseed for great results.
We hope we’ve given you the confidence to tackle this project. If you’ve got any questions, please comment and let us know.
Good luck, and we hope you’re soon enjoying a beautiful lawn!